Dishes, Photos

Supper Club IV Photos

Thanks to everyone who came out this month. Here are some pictures of the dishes we consumed!

{Crab}

Miso Butter Snow, Raw Cucumber, Compressed Cucumber with Sweet Soy, Togarashi, Green Onion, Micro Cabbage, Lime, Wasabi-Avocado Puree

Lime, Togarashi, Scallion, Miso Butter Snow, Cucumber, Compressed Cucumber with Sweet Soy, Micro Cabbage, Wasabi-Avocado Puree

Lime, Togarashi, Scallion, Miso Butter Snow, Cucumber, Compressed Cucumber with Sweet Soy, Micro Cabbage, Wasabi-Avocado Puree

{Spinach Agnolotti}

Fava Beans, Charred Sweet Onion, Asparagus, Truffle Salt, Lemon Nage

Fava Beans, Charred Sweet Onion, Asparagus, Truffle Salt, Lemon Nage

Fava Beans, Charred Sweet Onion, Asparagus, Truffle Salt, Lemon Nage

{Spring Lamb}

Chimichurri, Confit Radish in Duck Fat and Clover Honey, Sunchoke Puree

Chimichurri, Confit Radish, Sunchoke Puree

Chimichurri, Confit Radish, Sunchoke Puree

{Striped Bass}

Fennel aioli, fried artichoke hearts and stems, leek ash, assortment of edible flowers

Fennel aioli, fried artichoke, leek ash, assortment of edible flowers

Fennel aioli, fried artichoke, leek ash, assortment of edible flowers

{Berries & Brioche}

Raspberries, Strawberries, Vanilla Cream, Mint, Aerated Brioche

Raspberries, Strawberries, Vanilla Cream, Mint, Aerated Brioche

Raspberries, Strawberries, Vanilla Cream, Mint, Aerated Brioche

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Dishes, Photos

Anniversary Dinner

  • Chicken breasts sous vide in some sea salt and schmaltz (63C/75min)
  • Corn pudding half-spheres (sauteed sweet corn puree with chicken stock and set with gelatine in half-sphere molds)
  • Dehydrated corn powder (see previous post)
  • “Succotash” – fava beans, sunchokes, shallots, garlic, duck fat
  • Confit baby white potatoes (in duck fat, garlic, rosemary, and lemon zest 85C/45min)
  • Artichokes (85C/90min with olive oil, garlic, and lemon zest)
  • Chicken skin crisped in the oven with rosemary and then finely minced for garnish and texture
  • Lemon chicken stock nage stabilized with some xanthan gum
  • Garnished with some edible flowers and chive blossoms

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Ideas & Inspiration, Ingredients, Technique

Dehydration

I opened the fridge yesterday and there were four ears of sweet corn staring back at me. I forgot I had them and needed to use them before they got too starchy. Not knowing what I was going to do with them I decided to strip the kernels from the ears and sauté them with a bit of salt and pepper and then added some chicken stock and simmered them for a few minutes. My initial thought was to flavor the chicken stock with corn to use as a chicken-corn nage in a future dish but I decided to blitz the whole mix in the blender instead. I passed that corn mix, which resembled really wet grits, through a #20 tamis and was left with a lot of pulp.

Normally, I would toss the pulp without hesitation but the silpat caught my eye and I figured I’d see what I could do. I took the pulp and spread it thin across the silpat and set the oven to “warm” which is somewhere in the range of 150-175F. I left the corn in the oven to dehydrate for about 12 hours and the result is pretty awesome.

Image

 

A really crisp but light wafer is formed which can be broken into nice random pieces as a garnish. I took the crumbled wafer and powdered it in a coffee grinder into a very fine powder so it can be used as a powdered garnish on the plate or as a coating on other things that take well to corn.

Corn powder

I wonder what else I’ve been throwing away that has this hidden potential.

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Ideas & Inspiration, Photos

{Sunday Homage} Sergio Herman – Oud Sluis

In one of the online communities I’m a member of, we have started a weekly homage challenge. The basic idea is to pick a chef/dish/restaurant of prominence and come up with a dish that exemplifies said establishment. This inaugural challenge was to pay homage to the Dutch chef Sergio Herman of Oud Sluis, #21 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

For me, Sergio Herman is synonymous with seafood. I’m pretty sure every dish I’ve ever seen him present has been in some way tied to the sea so I knew I had to go in that direction for this dish. I’ve been hankering for some oysters ever since the weather has started warming and found some nice looking Chesapeake Bay oysters at the store so that quickly became the launching point for my dish. The other thing that stands out for me when thinking of Oud Sluis is their play on textures.

So here is what I came up with:

Oysters escabeche, charred ramp puree, ponzu glazed hen of the woods, miso-butter snow, dashi gelee

Sunday Homage #1Sunday Homage #1

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Ideas & Inspiration

Spring = Smoking season!

I was fortunate to receive an electric smoker this past Christmas. It’s essentially this Masterbuilt Electric Smoker but branded by Cajun Injection Company. I gave it a test run over the holiday with mixed results but now that spring is here I am determined to master this machine.

I did some pork ribs a few weeks back in a two step process. Step 1 was smoking the rubbed ribs at around 165F for 6 hours over hickory. I utilized a technique I saw in a ChefSteps.com video that suggested I fill the water pan with crushed ice to help the smoker maintain a more consistent temperature and avoid the overshoot as best as possible. It appears to have worked well as the temperature didn’t fluctuate very wildly and stayed within 5-10F, which is pretty good from my past experience with electric smokers. Step 2 was to bag the ribs and throw them in the water bath for 24 hours at 62C to tenderize them. This was my first long cook since upgrading to a lab quality circulator and I was very happy with the results. The ribs were very tender, like a very tender ribeye steak, but still clung to the bone nicely enough to give you a bit of work when you bit into them. I decided to finish them with the torch while basting them with their own juices. The crust was nicely developed and the meat was super moist. I think in the future this will be my go to method for foods that traditionally require a long cook time in the smoker.

Next on the list is going to be some shellfish. Oysters have been calling my name lately and I would like to experiment a bit with the different textures and smoke levels I can get from them in the shell as well as on a perforated tray. I am also looking at making a smoked seafood sausage with scallops and shrimp as a base but welcome thoughts and ideas about whether I should cold smoke them first or make the sausage first and smoke it whole.

Future experiments will be with smoked water, tea smoking, cold smoking cheeses, smoked pasta, and smoked vinegar. I think I’m going to need a bigger pantry!

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Ingredients, Photos

A peek at what I’ve been up to lately

{Scallop ceviche} Marinated in lime, orange, and jalepeno for 45 minutes. Sitting on top of golden beets cooked @ 88C/90min and sliced very thinly on a mandoline. The salad on top is kohlrabi and green apple with ramp tops, dressed in lemon, olive oil, salt and pepper.

Scallop Ceviche

 

{Ramps, Lamb, Fava, Green Beans, Sunchoke} Ramp leaves wrapped around organic ground lamb flavored with fermented blak beans, ginger, garlic, ramp stems, shallot, chives, shao xing rice wine, and sweet soy. The ground meat is mixed with some Activa RM to hold it together nicely when cooked @ 56.5C/70 minutes. It’s sliced and served with deep fried sunchoke chips, slivered fried green beans, and fava beans sauteed in brown butter with shallot, whole ramps, minced ramp stems, and dressed with some truffle salt, micro red cabbage, and chives.

Ramp torchon Ramp Torchon

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Technique

Quick Pickles…Sweet & Spicy Tabasco Pickles

Sweet & Spicy Tabasco Pickles

 

Making instant pickles is definitely one of my favorite uses for the chamber vac. We had some folks over for BBQ ribs and Final Four action yesterday and I made these as a nice side. WARNING: these are incredibly addictive so make a lot of them!

Sweet & Spicy Tabasco Pickles

  • 2 English cucumbers – sliced 2-3mm thick
  • 75g Tabasco sauce
  • 100g White sugar
  • 25g White vinegar
  • 100g Water
  • 1g Celery seed

Directions

  • Mix all of the brine ingredients and stir to dissolve sugar completely
  • Combine brine with cucumber in a large vacuum bag
  • Pull a full vacuum on the cucumbers (60 seconds on my machine) and at 55 seconds pull the power cord. This will stop the machine but keep the chamber under pressure. Let the cucumbers infuse like this for 10 minutes.
  • Plug machine back in and set the vacuum time to 10 seconds and cycle the machine again to finish the sealing process.
  • At this point your pickles are done and you can leave them in the bag or you can remove them and store them however you’d like.
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